Process of making shoe-uppers.



K. ENGEL.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOE UPPERS. APPLICATION nuso 050.21} 1912.

1,139,653., 1 Patented May 18, 1915. f

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THE NORRIS PETERS C0,. FHOTO-LITHOH WASHINGTON. D C

KARL ENGEL, OF ARLINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS; ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED. SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEWJERSEY, A CORPORATION'OE NEW JERSEY.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, KARL ENcEL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Arlington, in the county of Nfiddlesex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Processes of Making Shoe- Uppers, of which the following descriptlon, in connection with the accompanying drawin'gs, is a specification, like reference characand secured at their ends to an insertion which completes the heel portion. 1

The invention contemplates also the production of a shoe in whiohquarters are secured to the vamp at the'ankle opening, with an upward projection of the heel insertion piece secured to the quarters as a back-stay and conveniently extending also above the quarters to form a strap, such a sho including in the vamp a throat opening in which eyelet pieces are inserted.

Inpractising themethod a vampblank s formed with'side portions suitably extended and shaped at their ends'for attachment to an insertion at theheel, and this blank is provided with "an ankle opening by ren o ing a piece of material shaped at its s des for attachment to the ends of the vamp extensions. The shape of the piece cut out is determined with reference to the desired contour of the upper edges of the vamp extensions in. the completed shoe, as well as with referenceto the suitability of the piece for use as an insertion to give the shoe a proper shape at the heel end, and with these considerations in view the shape of the piece.

may be varied considerably, the contour of the ends of the vamp extensions being sultably varied (to correspond. The width of the piece also depends princlpally upon the widthor height desirable for the side extensions of the vamp, and the method permits considerable variation also in this respect without entailing any waste of material,

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v I Specification of Letters Patent. Patented May 18 19 15, Application filed December 21, 1912, Serial noqvsaozs.

since the length of the vamp extensions may be suitablyvaried to accommodate them to the widthof the insertion piece.

In carrying out the method for the pro duction ofa shoe havingquarters secured to the vamp, the vamp blank is preferably further provided'with a throat opening in ad dition to the ankle opening, and these openings are formed by the removal of material shaped to serve as the heel insertion referred to and also to provide a back-stay for the quarters, and preferably also a strap portion arranged to project above the quarters. The back-stay and strap similarly to the heel insertion may be varied somewhat in shape and size with reference. both to their subse-' quent use inthe shoe and to the shape of the edges of the vamp at the throat opening. It will be seen that the'method thuspermits considerable variation in the shape. and proportions of the difierent parts without involving waste/of material, since any such change in oneof the parts entails simply a corresponding change in another, and all the material is preserved and utilized to the best advantage. I I

The invention will beexplained in greater detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 represents a vamp blank with the openings therein and shows the manner in which, the heel insertion, back stay and strap correspond to the openings, and Figs. 2 and 3 are respectively a side view and a rear view of a shoe upper constructed in ac- 1.

cordance with my process. 7

I first cut. a vamp blank 1, extended to provide side portions 2' and 3 suitably curvedat their 'ends, as indicated at 4 and I 5, with a view to the proper shape and appearance of the shoe when these endsare stitched to the sides of a heel insertion. I

next provide the vamp blank withan ankle opening and a throat opening, and I find it both feasible and convenient to shape these I openings in such a way thatthe material removed to form the ankle opening shallbe of the proper shape for attachment to the side extensions of the vamp to form the heel insertion, "and the materialremoved to form the throat opening shall be properly shaped to. serve as a back-staylfor the quarters of the upper, and if desired also,

to provide a strap projecting above the quarters. The heel insertion is indicated termined shape and size to serve assaid insertion and suitably roportioned to leave the side extensions of the vamp, of the desired width and with the edges of said extensions at the ankle opening suitably shaped to incline upwardly toward the rear of the completed shoe, and securing said piece at its sides to the ends of said exten-i serve as a back-stay, and uniting said heel insertion tov said extensions and the backstay to the quarters of the upper; V

5. That improvement in the art of making shoe uppers which consists in forming a vamp blank extended to provide side portions shaped forattachment at their ends to an insertion at the heel of the shoe, providing said blank with an ankle opening and a throat opening by removing portions of material shaped respectively for attachment to said extensions as the heel insertion and to serve as a back-stay and strap, and

uniting said heel insertion to said extensions and'the back-stay to the quarters of the upper with the strap portion projecting above said quarters. v

6. That improvement in the art of making shoe uppers which consists in forming a vamp blank'extended to provide side por- V tions shaped for attachment at their endsto' an insertion at the heel of the shoe, providing said blank with an ankle opening and, I a throat opening by removing a piece of ma 7 terial the respective portions of which are shaped for attachment to said extensions as the heel insertion and to serve as a backstay and strap, trimming said piece of material to limit the length of the side contour lines of said heel insertion to the length of the contour lines at the ends of the respective extensions after said piece has been re moved, and uniting the heel insertion to said extensions and the back-stay t0 the quarters of the upper with the strap projecting above said quarters.

That improvement in the art of making shoe uppers which consists in forming a vamp blank extended to provide side portions shaped for attachment at their ends to c an insertion at the heel of the shoe, providing said blank with an ankle opening and a throat opening by removing a piece of-material the respective portions of which are shaped for attachment to said extensions as the heel insertion and to serve as a backstay and strap, extending the side lines of the back-stay portion in curves tothe sides 7 of the heel insertion, and uniting the heel insertion to said extensions and the backstay to the quarters of the upper with the strap projecting above said quarters.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of,

two subscribing witnesses. V

KARL ENGEL. Witnesses:

HOWARD O. WINsLoW, 'HARLOW M. DAVIS.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. 0. 

